Veritas

And now, to use the old Monty Python line, for something completely different:

No one is doing what Veritas Gateway to Food and Wine does in terms of food and wine, at least not to our knowledge. The West County shop offers tableware, gifts, gourmet food and wine, plus cooking for customers. It’s also a restaurant, at least in the daylight hours. The kitchen, in the middle of the store, has a counter with stools, so folks can wander in for breakfast/brunch on weekends and lunch every day but Monday. Now, Veritas is serving dinner Thursday-Saturday, changing the after-dark dynamic. (The website, at this writing, doesn’t reflect that, so phone for the reservation.)

Veritas has been host to wine dinners and similar occasions ever since David and Stephanie Stitt opened it four years ago, so they’re comfortable with having tables in the middle of the store, and a recent expansion next door provides even more room. Casual is the operative word, and it’s not unusual for folks to wander up to watch the cooks at work or to patrol the wine stock to pick out something for dinner, either at the restaurant tonight or at home tomorrow. The menu, which changes from night to night, makes a charming statement on the bottom, Take your time – enjoy your night out. When you’re ready, we’ll meet you at the register.

We did a lot of poking around among the first courses, in particular, and were rewarded with some real finds. We hope chef Andrew Wittmer's mushroom soup makes a regular appearance. Thick with chunks of the tasty fungi, laced with a little brandy and hinting of the nectar of dried porcinis, it was remarkable. A bowl of mussels, large enough to serve as an entree, was a winning choice, with plenty of toasted bread alongside to soak up the delectable broth.

The menu isn’t focused on any particular cuisine, but the pasta options were extremely tasty. Fat ravioli in sage butter, stuffed with spinach, eggplant, portabella mushrooms and ricotta absolutely shone, and the gnocchi with mushrooms in an herbed cream sauce weren’t far behind. Risotti came as either mushroom or Italian sausage, and they were indeed different, not just the same rice with different add-ins. The mushroom was subtle, the sausage rowdy, both good – but we’d probably give the edge to the sausage.

Two more stars were the pan-fried oysters, crunchy from an introduction to some cornmeal that seemed to be more coarsely ground than average, and presented on a small layer of Tabasco butter. Divine. We’re generally extremely skeptical of crab cakes at Midwestern restaurants, but succumbed to temptation and were rewarded with a couple of the better ones we’ve found locally. They showed clear signs of real lump crabmeat that had not been manhandled to shreds, and seasoning assertive enough to balance with the delicate flavor of the crab.

A couple of entrees were splendidly intriguing. Short ribs wore a rich brown gravy, succulent and homey, a classic rendition. Pork chops described as pan-seared with a blue cheese wine sauce were two chops of garden-variety supermarket thickness. It’s easy to make chops like that cardboard-stiff, but these were moist and tender, the sauce a nice counterpoint, the whole thing rich and one of those big-flavor dishes we’re so fond of. Both came with polenta lightly laced with rosemary and some thin grilled asparagus.

Dinner in a wine shop offers an embarrassment of riches, and David is an expert. The selection is wide and deep, with a full range of prices and some interesting choices. We’ve sampled a number of his favorites, without a disappointment.

Cookies baked to order for dessert? Well, if souffles can be done that way, why not cookies? We tried one of each, a chocolate chocolate chip, an oatmeal raisin and a macadamia nut. Now, frankly, what sort of person doesn’t just babble over cookies still warm and gooey from the oven, so saying these were delicious is obviously redundant, but they were delightful. A lemon cream cheese tart’s crust had remained crisp, the filling dense and tart, a joy to any lemon lover, reminiscent of what came out of kitchens for company desserts when our pie-baking aunts were in their prime.

Veritas

1722 Clarkson Rd., Chesterfield

636-530-9505

http://http:/www.veritasgateway.com

Lunch Tues.-Sun, Dinner Thurs-Sat., Breakfast Sat.-Sun

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Yes

Smoking: No

Entrees: $13-$24

Comments

[D. Ashkenazi]

I had the misfortune to discover your site. Joe, you are a terrible "critic," and when I accidentally hear your pompous ramblings on the radio, I am quick to turn you off.

[Gail Wittmer]

First of all, I disagree with the above blogger, I think you have helped many of St. Louis native and visitor alike in finding "Good" eats in the area! MANY value your opinion and with the amount of time you have been doing this, should!
Secondly, my husband and I have visited Veritas many times, and it is delightful and delicious! HOWEVER JOE, you neglected a not so small detail; the name of the chefs. Why would I care? WELL, I am the Mom. Yep, I am THE Mom of Chef Andrew David Wittmer, Cordon Blue. He started working here in W. Co.STL when he was 15 as a busser for Gianfabio's and went to food prep. Then to Salina's, then so many other's. Finaly, decided to jump in and make it his profession and moved to Scotsdale,AZ. He has worked for Cafe de France, Monarch, The Oyster Bar. And now is working for Veritas. So those deletible goodies were of his and his buddy's Bill,Suis Chef creation.
The article that you wrote was so great and much needed and I want to thank you again for that piece. In these times a small buisness needs a boost so what you said was a blessing for all that work there.
I am just doing a "MOM" thing, can't help it!! Plus the customers love to go there and chat with him and watch him work, and he loves it too. It is part of what makes that whole atmosphere.
Keep up the Good work!

[Ann]

Duly edited!

[Gail Wittmer]

Mr. and Mrs. Pollack,
Thank you for the edit. It is much appreciated.
We will continue looking forward to reading your great ideas and recipes you share with us in the area.
Thanks again for all you do.
The Wittmers