Fond

It’s hard to conceal our delight at what’s happening in the 100 block of North Main Street in Edwardsville these days. A burgeoning Gourmet Gulch seems to be taking hold, with chef Amy Zupanci, an Edwardsville native, CIA graduate and New York restaurant veteran, bringing us Fond. A word on the name: This isn’t the adjective that refers to affection, although after one eats there it’s a very easy emotion to experience. In cooking jargon, it refers to the bits that remain on the bottom of a pan after meat or fish are browned, which are usually rinsed off with a little wine or stock so their rich flavor can become a tasty, rich addition to a sauce.

A storefront with celadon green walls and diaphanous drapes, the light is low and the noise level, at least when the restaurant isn’t packed, is reasonable. The dark wood fixtures lend a feeling of the Asian tropics - think Singapore with air conditioning. Servers are young and welcoming, but show signs of serious training - re-setting tables, they carry the silver on a napkin-lined plate, for instance, one of those little details that mark a restaurant as paying attention. And they re-set the silver often, sometimes replacing previously untouched utensils.

An amuse-bouche of a tony cod cake with a polka dot of scallion mayonnaise kicked things off, a drizzle of chive oil punctuating everything and providing a nice meshing of flavors. Duck rillettes, creamy-rich and very spreadable, came with toast, a very zingy coarse mustard and some pickled radishes, the right thing to bring spark to an appetite.

Crudo of blue marlin was a first for us. Sliced see-through thin, the raw fish (kind of an Italian ceviche) was dressed with citrus and sprinkled with Italian parsley and tarragon, its anise notes dancing with the fish. Crisply fried shallot rings added a delicate crunch. And a demitasse cup of a cool, clear, brilliant green cucumber soup was touched with a little mint and punctuated with a few floating baubles of creme fraiche seasoned with preserved lemon, a real charmer.

And then there was the scallop. Just one fat boy, but what a remarkable dish: The scallop had been scored part of the way through and then, seemingly, flipped scored-side down into the pan and cooked until crispy on the bottom and slightly browned on the edges, with enough heat to cook it through without turning it over. Rather resembling a chrysanthemum, it was served scored-side up on nuggets of roasted carrot seasoned with Moroccan-esque spicing of cumin and coriander. Alongside came a streak of an amazing frothy puree of smoked celeriac, the flavor confounding people who might think they didn’t care for the root’s celery-like flavor. The scallop was perfectly cooked, the crispy scored side contrasting with the silky bottom, the vegetables were a marvel. It was a platonic dish.

For those who haven’t tried skate, Fond offered a variation that might convince the skeptic. The boneless fish was lightly dusted in cornmeal and fried, holding its tender texture and mild flavor without overwhelming it. It sat atop potatoes Anna, wafer-thin slices cooked in butter until they were deeply browned, crisp here and there, irresistible. Some spinach and green garlic finished things off. Slices of pork loin, still a little pink, paired up with a wonderfully rich polenta. A pleasing counterpoint was provided by some quickly sauteed arugula, its slight peppery notes a deligtful touch. A little shredded pork from the smoker and a bacon-y sauce topped things off, and the result was a pleasure.

The wine list is modest, but includes some wonderful offerings, and a more-than-adequate selection of wines by the glass. Prices are moderate, too. A place like Fond, with its many different preparations and sauces, is perfect for celebrating with several wines, and we like a white with a first course, a red with the entree. Sometimes, of course, the vice is versa.

From the dessert menu, we split a piece of orange tart. Orange is a flavor not often seen after breakfast time, but it can do nice things, and here it lightly flavored a creamy filling that was anointed with a ruby grapefruit sauce and a few segments of the same. The crust was a little soggy, but the texture of the filling was satiny. Excellent coffee, too.

Both Fond and its neighbor up the street, Erato, are bringing more classic American cuisine to the area, just as has happened on the Missouri side of the river. The chefs have distilled the best from the European-African-Asian heritage, the melting pot (or stew pot) that has brought so much else to our shores. Despite those who prefer hyphenates, we think that ingredients and skills from all over the planet have come together in American universities, laboratories and work places of all types, and there is no reason that they should not unite in the kitchen as well.

Fond

106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, IL

618-656-9001

www.fondfinedining.com

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Fair

Smoking: No

Entrees: $24-$27

Comments

[Chas]

I'm a little puzzled by all this on Fond. The reviewer's reviews have all been positive; people that I have talked to, about 10, and word of mouth is not. What gives? Is this just a case of cheerleading? Why such a stark contrast? I suppose when I have lots of extra disposable cash to see for myself.

[K]

I was just there two weeks ago. The food, wine and atmosphere were as excellent as the review! Chas you need to give it a try rather than just asking others. This is a place that I will be back to again and again.

[Chas]

Fair enough, K. But when it comes from friends and folks who I trust their palates and know the other places where they eat, I get a little suspect. Could you compare this to anywhere else? I'll be sure to report back when I do go.

[Karen]

I'm eager to enjoy an evening at Fond with friends. However, I'm dismayed that the chef appears to use non-sustainable seafood on the menu. Fish like skate and blue marlin are delicious, but they have been severely overfished and in danger of becoming obsolete. This is an important issue; if we want to leave fish in the sea for our children, we need to educate ourselves as well as those who sell and cook seafood. Check out the site at Monteray Bay Aquarium for great info:
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx

[Robert Young]

I had a wonderful meal there. The food ws creative and delicious. The experience compares to the top places in St. Louis without being pretensious. It is worth the drive from St. Louis