Stellina Pasta Cafe

Stellina Pasta Cafe has emerged from a major remodeling with an extremely different air. With a more sophisticated dining room and a small bar in a waiting area at the door, the restaurant now seats about 60, double its former capacity. This doesn't seem to have alleviated the demand for their food, though. We visited on a rainy weeknight, arriving at six-ish, thinking it would be easier to find a table; it was early for us, but with no reservations taken for parties of fewer than six, it was necessary. We grabbed the next-to-last deuce, and within 15 minutes, there were folks waiting for tables. The edge-of-the-Hill restaurant is adjusting nicely to the increased work load, which means that while food flies out of the kitchen, it doesn't fly quite as fast as it did.

All kinds of groups, from young adults with a toddler to a quartet of businessmen, are happy visitors, and a noise level that doesn't leave us shouting across the table, make this an even more welcoming spot. The menu isn't immense, making decisions a little easier. We tried both the appetizer choices (there are salads as well), and found considerable happiness. A potato and escarole soup was a charmer, the escarole giving an earthy note, the potato thickening the broth a little but not turning it into something the consistency of gravy. And the hummus—ah, the hummus. Served with a handful of mixed olives, the kind that are so deeply flavored, it's hard to imagine they're pitted, and some roasted garlic cloves, the thicker-than-average puree had a deep taste of chickpeas, rounded and full, awaiting the generous wedges of warm, savory pita that came alongside.

The pasta is made in house, and the options change from day to day. There are always at least three choices, and we went straight for a whole wheat tagliatelle lightly sauced with olive oil, asparagus, cipollini onions and some speck, the Tyrolean bacon. Combinations like this often are found in northern Italy, where Alpine cultures cross borders and Austro-Germanic gastronomic influences are often found hand-in-hand with Italy's. It was an excellent combination, the paper-thin speck tender but not falling apart, the light cure adding to the overall oomph of the dish. And, yes, of course, the pasta, thin as it was, wasn't overcooked while the whole wheat flour added its own notes.

Barramundi is one of those words that it's even fun to say. With such an exotic-sounding name, the mild fresh-water fish is less offbeat on the plate than one might expect, despite its general healthiness. (Its personal life, however, verges on the astonishing; in the wild it changes gender when it's about five years old.) Jamey Tochtrop, chef and owner with his wife Lisa, wraps a fillet around crab and bacon and does a quick roast. Our only complaint was that the bottom of the rolled-up fillet was slightly tough where it had been in contact with the pan. But the flavor was good, the contents not cooked to death, and the spinach and risotto that rode shotgun also pleased.

The wine list is rather short, leaning to Italian varieties with a nice by-the-glass option. Italian reds are often heavy on the Sangiovese grape, a medium-weight grape with fine flavor, and several are available, but as Stellina grows, it will become time to expand the list a little.

Desserts are Lisa Tochtrop's department, and her lemon brulee tart left us smiling. A shortbread-like crust was fresh and crisp, the lemon custard properly tart and creamy, and a fast blast of the sugared top caramelized things just a little. Just enough to finish things off and move us on so the folks waiting to enjoy their evening could have the table.

Stellina Pasta Cafe

3342 Watson Rd.

314-256-1600

www.stellinapasta.com 

Lunch & Dinner: Tues.-Sat.

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Poor

Smoking: No

Entrees: $11-$18

Lunch & Dinner: Tues.-Sat.

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Poor

Smoking: No

Entrees: $11-$18