St. Louis Eats and Drinks With Joe and Ann Pollack

Mushroom Ravioli

We’ve found something delicious in a freezer case. At Viviano’s on The Hill, on impulse we picked up a bag of mushroom ravioli, mushroom and mozzarella, to be precise. John Viviano eyed the bag. "Those are good," he promised. "A cream sauce and a little truffle oil, and...."

At home, we had no cream and no truffle oil. I ended up dropping them, still frozen, into a pot of boiling salted water , stirring gently until the water began to bubble again, set the timer for 5 minutes and then worked on a topping. Real butter and a generous pinch of powdered porcini mushrooms from Ozark Forest Mushrooms, into a small saucepan, cooked over medium heat until the butter solids browned.

The ravioli were perfectly cooked, al dente, with their richness heightened by the mushroom filling. The sauce made us wistful that we didn’t have bread around to wipe the plates clean.

$5.99/lb, which is about a dozen ravioli, serving 2-4 depending on whether it’s a main course or a first course, and of course, it’s vegetarian. It would be an elegant dinner party item.

J. Viviano & Sons Grocers

5139 Shaw Ave.

314-771-5476

www.shopviviano.com

Closed Sunday

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Difficult

Sugaree Baking Company

Pie Day is coming! Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. until 6 p.m. (or, we suspect, until the pies are gone), Sugaree Baking Company in Dogtown sells pie. And if you’re thinking, "Gosh, I can’t eat a whole pie," don’t let that stop you. There are two sizes, 6" and 10", the smaller one perfect for one or two people.

We stopped by and picked up a lemon meringue and a peach-raspberry from Pat Rutherfurd-Pettine and her husband, Jim Pettine at the bakery, which is at the corner of West Park and Tamm Avenues. It’s hard to say which we liked better. We both had aunts who were demon lemon pie bakers, and this lived up to those high standards, with a filling that was wonderfully tart and a velvety smooth meringue nicely browned. The lattice-top-crusted peach-raspberry’s pastry showed nicely, and the peaches were still slightly firm, rather than the slithery stuff so often found in out-of-season peach pies. And the combination of peaches and raspberries was a delight.

Still left in mid-afternoon were pumpkin, apple, cherry and chocolate cream. They’re taking orders for Thanksgiving, and plan to make their utterly divine rugelach, as good as anything made in Brooklyn, available, too. 6-inch pies $5, 10-inch pies $10.

Sugaree Baking Company

1242 Tamm Ave.

314-645-5496

www.sugareebaking.com

Kitchenware

Cost Plus World Market and I go way back to my first trip to San Francisco, when it was a higgledy-piggledy warren of assorted interesting, inexpensive stuff. At that point, it was like an immense version of Pier One. Nowadays Pier One has decided to compete with Pottery Barn, another store that began at what we’d now call Ikea prices, and lost its charm. But World Market, as the store now encourages us to call it, still reminds me of walking into Pier One in the old days, with the feeling of "Oh, wow, I didn’t know I wanted one of those!" Beyond the tableware, baskets, cushions and furniture, they carry a pretty decent selection of reasonably priced wine and some interesting specialty food items, like curry-cooking sauces, jams, snacks, chocolate and pasta. As the holidays come nearer, remember that it’s a good place for stocking stuffers for adults. (Kids, too, but perhaps not quite as much.)

Poking around in the kitchenware section, I found a couple of striking things. One, as much for the visuals as the usefulness, is a series of measuring jugs. (There’s a bowl, also.) The smaller one is $5.99, the larger $7.99. The high sides make me think that it would work well for something that would be mixed by a stick blender. 

But the most interesting item was this grinder-grater. There are three pieces: The white ceramic top layer is a half-circle with nubbins on it for grating smaller amounts of garlic, onion or ginger.

 

The half-circle fits on top of a bowl whose interior has a ridged, coarse surface.

The third piece is a wooden pestle. Some mortars and pestles are lovely but utterly ineffective because the ingredients slide and bounce around as the cook is trying to mash them up. Won’t happen here with a bowl like this. All this is $7.99, more than reasonable. And it’s a lot easier to clean than taking apart a food processor.

-Ann

Cost Plus World Market

24 Brentwood Promenade Court, Brentwood

314-918-7800

3628 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Sunset Hills

314-821-4488

238 THF Blvd, Chesterfield

636-728-0011

http://www.www.worldmarket.com

Book: "Eating St. Louis"

Fair warning: Page 16 of Patricia Corrigan’s new book, "Eating St. Louis," is blue with white type, and the entire page is devoted to a sketch of us, complete with picture. That prominence, while appreciated, makes it impossible for us to create a real review of her delightful offering, subtitled "The Gateway City's Unique Food Culture." Joe and Pat worked together at the Post-Dispatch for almost two decades.

The book is a charmer, filled with superior photographs of restaurants and restaurateurs through the years. The recollections and writing are just right to satisfy St. Louisans’ love for nostalgia. Venerable restaurants like Goody-Goody, Tony’s, Medart’s, Riddle’s and Crown Candy; mass feeders like Imo’s, the Pasta House and the St. Louis Bread Company; grocery stores like Moll’s, Schnucks and Dierbergs; watering holes like O’Connell’s, Blueberry Hill and Joe & Charlie’s; farmers’ markets; wineries and breweries all are discussed and remembered, often with interviews of owners, managers and chefs. There’s also a nod to the Doisy College of Health Sciences at St. Louis U., and its Fresh Gatherings Café. The university and Reedy Press are co-publishers.

The photographs are wonderful, a tribute to the Missouri Historical Society, the memorabilia collectors and Corrigan’s picture-chasing ability. Corrigan’s breezy style is front and center, and that’s what the book is – a light-hearted chat over a bar, remembering the good times and the good meals.

However, as he dons his critic’s hat, Joe would like to point out that, as regards his bio in the book, he was a sports writer for the Globe-Democrat in the 1950s before entering public relations with the Football Cardinals in 1961, and that he joined the Post-Dispatch in 1972.

The book goes on sale next week, and signing events include:

Oct. 13: 6-8 p.m., Duff’s, 392 North Euclid Ave. (free)

Oct. 18: 10-11:30 a.m., Ferguson Farmers’ Market (free)

Oct. 21: 7 p.m., Missouri History Museum (free), with appearances by Steve Komorek and Eric Brenner

Nov. 1: 6-9 p.m., Moulin/Vin de Set, 2017 Chouteau Ave. ($25 per person, includes food and drink, samples, a presentation by the author and a $5 off coupon for the purchase of the book. Reservations: 314-241-7799 or www.brownpapertickets.com/event/44134

Nov. 14: 6-9 p.m., Sappington Farmers’ Market (free)

Nov. 22: 11 a.m.- 2 p.m., Plaza Frontenac (free, featuring local bakers)

 

 

Pork Belly and Shanks

One of the pleasures of restaurant food is trying things that aren’t available at the supermarket. But sometimes what you try is so tasty that the cooking itch sets in. Or there’s a recipe in a newspaper or magazine that sounds sooooo good but involves an ingredient you know you’ve never seen in the stores you frequent.

We need no excuse to go cruising the aisles of food stores, large and small, and we’re always glad to bring news of unusual (and, we hope, sought-after) items we’ve found. Thus, today’s news bulletin:

Not one, but two cuts of pork that we’ve enjoyed in restaurants, popped up in, of all places, Seafood City Super Market. We’d visited in hopes of finding duck legs. No luck there, but we were pleased by what we did find.

Pork belly, the uncured kind (the cured stuff is better known as bacon), is a hot restaurant item, and there it was, at $2.69 a pound. And pork shanks, here labeled pork hocks, are available at $1.59 a pound. As much as we love lamb shanks, this would work equally well, and certainly costs less. And pork is a lot easier for the hesitant eater to handle.

Two worthwhile finds. Viva la pig!

Seafood City Super Market

7733 Olive Blvd, University City

314-721-6688

Open daily

A Baker's (or Eaters') Ten Holiday Gifts

An informal group of St. Louis food bloggers has decided to offer suggestions for holiday gifts for folks who like to eat, cook and/or drink. Never hesitant with opinions, we were glad to participate. So for folks on your list, near and far, here are some ideas.

We never visit Hermann, MO, without a cooler in our car so we can go the extra few miles to Swiss, literally a wide spot in the road that’s the home of Swiss Meats. Their award-winning sausages come in many, many varieties and their bacon is wonderful. They’re now sold by mail, too. The website will help if you’re not up for a road trip.

Swiss Meat & Sausage Co.

2506 S. Hwy 19, Hermann, MO

573-486-2086

800-793-7947

www.swissmeats.com

Our other favorite sausage spot is in St. Louis and definitely calls for a visit. G&W Sausage is just off Kingshighway in south St. Louis. It’s a butcher shop as well as a sausage maker, but it’s their bratwurst, especially the Hungarian brats, and smoked liverwurst that keeps calling us back. They also carry some imported German groceries and ethnic breads. Perfect for the person (why did we almost write "guy"?) who brags about barbecuing all winter long.

G&W Sausage

4828 Parker Ave.

314-352-5066

A good knife is a great tool for someone who’s learning to cook. If you’re one of those folks who are uncomfortable with the idea of a knife as a gift, there are lots of other cooking-related items on the shelves, and a gift certificate–well, who knows what your recipient would like? Bertarelli Cutlery moved to the Hill a few years ago, close to the grocery stores there, so you can kill several birds with one stone. We’d suggest a weekday visit, when things are less crowded. And bring your knives if they need sharpening, too.

Bertarelli Cutlery

1927 Marconi Ave.

314-664-4005

www.bertarellicutlery.com

For out-of-towners, one of St. Louis’ best desserts is shippable. Schlafly, aka The Tap Room and The Bottleworks,  sells its divine sticky toffee pudding online. We’ve used this gift for exiled locals with great success. The pudding and sauce are packaged separately, with instructions for warming them.

www.schlafly.com

Another deeply St. Louis-y thing is Imo’s Pizza. They, too, are selling via their website. We haven’t  used it, since our Imo’s-loving family members come to town often enough to satisfy their cravings, but we haven’t found anything like it elsewhere, and we know it’d be the perfect gift for someone’s New Year’s Eve or Super Bowl celebration.

www.imospizza.com

One of the newest businesses to serve those of us who like to eat is Celebrity Chef Kitchens. It’s one of those combination-of-things spots that offers several possibilities, including gift certificates. There’s a freezer case full of goodies made by the gifted chef Marc Felix, wine he’s chosen, specialty foods like artisanal pasta from Italy and organic butter, kitchenware from Mario Batali’s new line (which is quite handsome), cast iron from Emeril (and stainless, too, but that’s easier to find around town), and a few books. They’re also doing the "we’ll prep, you cook"- multiple-entrees-for-the-freezer thing.

Celebrity Chef Kitchens

9200 Olive Blvd.

314-692-2433

www.celebritychefkitchens.com

In this day of coffee consciousness, we don’t see why more folks don’t have their own coffee grinder. In fact, we own two: One of those little blender-like deals which we use for grinding spices, and another – a burr grinder -- for coffee. The blender kinds just don’t deliver a consistent grind, so look for the sort where you put the beans in the top and the ground coffee is delivered into a container - that’s a burr grinder. We have no particular brand preference.

We’re partial to lamb, and for folks like us, you can’t do much better than meat from Prairie Grass Farms, who sell their great product at farmers’ markets around town; they’re usually at both the markets we listed here .A leg or rack of lamb would be mighty welcome, and might even net the giver a dinner invite. While you’re there, pick up some fresh eggs, too.

This is the entertaining season, and if you’ve got a pal with a signature dish, consider one of those paint-it-yourself-pottery spots and making (or commissioning) a platter that says something like "Jane’s Fabulous Food" or "George The Risotto King".

There are lots of times when paper napkins are just the thing. But other times, you want something nicer. My napkins for Thanksgiving are actually terrycloth finger towels with a sheaf of wheat on each one, just the thing for a meal with drumsticks and kids of various ages. The terrycloth makes it a very effective napkin, unlike a lot of the cloth ones out there now, which are primarily polyester, deeply useless for really wiping grease off fingers but highly talented at sliding off laps. (They also feel very odd to the touch - and really cheap.) A truly luxurious gift would be a set of heavy linen or even cotton napkins. Colors are nice, but can be tricky to match; white can be washed in really hot water and bleached to get rid of stains. To up the indulgence factor, have them monogrammed in white-on-white. And to really up it, order a dozen. Even if they never feed a dozen at a time, that’s enough to replace those that disappear in washing machines like socks, or to offer fresh napkins before dessert.

And if you’re thinking wine, how about a fine Missouri Norton and some good chocolate? Red wine and dark chocolate are not only health foods now, the combination always provokes conversation . We prefer plain dark chocolate for this, rather than flavored ones like mint or nuts or fruits, but that’s just us. As to the wine, go visit your friendly wine merchant; we have some enthusiastic, knowledgeable people around town who love to help rookies.

More possibilities? Other lists are offered by:

Alanna at A Veggie Venture

Iron Stef

Stefani at The Cupcake Project

Anne at The Kitchen Conservatory

Winter Farmers' Markets

 

The last Tower Grove Farmers’ Market of the season has passed. With the global climate change, we still found some good tomatoes and peppers, along with what we’d expect in the autumn. The growing season is getting longer and in a few years, they’ll probably be running until just before Thanksgiving. Meanwhile, we have to keep track of when the monthly winter markets take place. For your convenience and your in-computer master schedules:

St. Louis Community Farmers’ Market

St. John’s Episcopal Church

3644 Arsenal St., just west of Grand Blvd.

email: stlcfm@gmail.com

8:30 a.m. - Noon on second Saturdays of the month:

November 10

December 8

January 12

February 9

March 8

April 12

and

Maplewood Winter Farmers’ Market

Schlafly Bottleworks’ Crown Room

7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood

Saturdays, 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.

November 17

December 22

January 26

February 23

March 29

Doughnut Alert

We stopped by LaMar’s Donuts the other day. It seems like we never manage to get to a doughnut shop when they’re fully stocked. On the day in question, one of the early hunter-and-gatherers had walked in and asked for 14 dozen doughnuts—and they hadn’t called ahead. (Note: This isn’t a way to make friends at a doughnut shop. And of all the places where it’d be nice to have pals....)

Still, we stumbled on a particularly delicious item. One of my fallbacks later in the day at such places are what are called around here "old fashioned" doughnuts. They also are known as sour cream or buttermilk, but by any name, they’re the heavier version of a cake doughnut, the texture richer and slightly crumbly, usually sporting only a simple glaze. Even a little stale, they keep their humble charm.

This time I got an old-fashioned glazed bar, and was, to put it plainly, blown away. It was the moistest one I’ve ever had, wonderfully tender, far less stodgy than the usual. And then there was the flavor. Just a touch of almond extract? Maybe a little lemon? It was dazzling. I’ve got to get in the habit of carrying my camera at all times.

It’s a don’t miss.

LaMar’s Donuts

2542 S. Brentwood Blvd, Brentwood

314-962-6210

9614 Olive Blvd., Olivette

314-989-1101

www.lamars.com

Artisanal Salt

The curious shopper can find the darndest things. Selected Schnucks are carrying some interesting salts, the best known of which probably is sel gris, a sea salt that comes in large creamy flakes. Beyond that -- indeed, well beyond that -- are a red Hawaiian salt, called Alaea, receiving its color from the red clay of the neighborhood, with another Hawaiian entry, Hiwa Kai, black from volcanic ash. A Mediterranean entry is called Cyprus Black, and there’s an American salt, Salish, which is smoked over alder wood.

So what do you do with them? I’ve tasted the sel gris sprinkled over a slice of good bread and high-quality unsalted butter, a great combination of chew, smoothness and crunch. I bought some Alaea on our last trip to Hawaii a few years ago and thought it looked good sprinkled over mashed potatoes or on sour-cream-topped baked potatoes. Some people suggest using it for color contrast on the rim of a margarita, but it’s rather pale for that. The black salts give even more color contrast, but on the whole, simple foods show off the subtle flavor differences better. Still, the thought of the rim of a bloody Mary glass coated with the smoked salt keeps running through my head.

Not a novelty item at $16.99 a pound, they’re sold near the olive bar in deli containers of about a half-pound each.

Artisan Salt Company

www.artisanalsalt.com

To Market, To Market

The news that the Tower Grove Farmers Market will open this weekend, and Clayton’s on May 19 cheers us and brings a smile to those who patronize it, or hope to patronize it "some day." Perhaps this month will bring that day for the latter group as the market arrives in a new location, at Straub’s on Maryland Avenue. We buy eggs and lamb, fruits and vegetables and baked goods there, and at Tower Grove Park and Kirkwood during the season.

Prices often are higher than at the grocery store, but we like the freshness, and the interaction with the purveyor, and the opportunity to learn something abut the items that are on sale. Besides, friendly dogs wander around, and the atmosphere is one of peace, kindness and friendship.

Our love for markets is extensive; wherever we travel, we visit the market. It’s a superb way to learn about the community and its products, to sample the fare, to meet the people, to improve what small skills we have in other tongues.

But in tandem with the good news about markets and spring, we heard the terrible news that a fire had almost destroyed one of our favorites, the Eastern Market in Washington, D. C., on the eastern edge of Capitol Hill on Seventh Street S.E. between C and D Streets. The blaze did extensive damage to the 134-year-old landmark, and while there are immediate plans to rebuild, it will take time.

Mayor Adrian Fenty said the city-owned market will be rebuilt and he was searching to find space for the merchants to use while construction is under way. Most of the damage was in the South Hall, where 14 vendors sell fresh meat, cheese, poultry, fruit and vegetables, and a food stall offers a marvelous breakfast that includes some of the best crab cakes we’ve ever eaten.

We’re planning a trip to D.C. in June and will keep readers posted. In the meantime, support your own farmers’ market.