When some of us were much younger, and maybe a little more foolish, Chianti, the red wine of Tuscany, in straw-covered bottles, was the wine of romance. We went to dimly lighted restaurants, often in basements, like the late, lamented Rossino’s of the 1960s. Those bottles, empties used as candle-holders, also adorned the tables covered with red-and-white checked cloths.
Although the wine often was young and rather raw, the better bottles displayed the dusty, dark, plummy quality that I still find the most attractive flavor of the Sangiovese grape. Through the years, the wrapping disappeared and the wine was housed in less distinguishable bottles, but the grape remained popular and has been used as the base for many Italian blends. California-grown Sangiovese went into Italian-style blends.
As a fan of hearty red wines, I’ve always had a soft spot for Chiantis, and I was pleased to see the Gallo family in the act. Gallo now imports and distributes three Chiantis from Cantine Leonardo da Vinci, a cooperative that has about 1250 acres and is located in the town of Vinci, once home to the famous Leonardo. Vinci is inside the Chianti region is in an area of Tuscany roughly outlined by Pisa, Siena and Florence.
Gallo products, by the way, once caused an unfavorable reaction that at times was deserved. But for the last couple of decades, with younger family members in charge, the family has greatly improved its products. Gallo and Anheuser-Busch, a similar alcoholic behemoth, have the money and the personnel to make any kind of beverage they like, and the range of quality is immense and growing at the high end.
Hampered by image, both organizations have sought to break away from their stodgy old images, with new label designs that often do not mention the parent company and with import arms that span the globe.
The three new Chiantis differ only slightly from one another in composition, age and price. They are: 2005 Chianti DOCG, $16; 2004 Chianti Classico, $24; and 2003 Chianti Riserva, $27.
As expected, the eldest appeared the best. It was 100 percent Sangiovese, and the additional age gave it more softness, roundness and body. The finish was long and elegant, and it was perfect with osso bucco. The wine was vinified in stainless steel and went through malolactic fermentation. It then spent a year in new French oak barrels and three months in bottle for a total of 27 months before leaving the winery. It’s a delicious wine in every respect.
The ‘04 and ‘05 are good table wines, the former with 5 percent of Colovino grapes added to the Sangiovese, the latter showing a blend of 10 percent merlot and 5 percent Syrah. All were fermented in stainless steel and spent less time in oak than their elder brother. So both the ‘04 and the ‘05 are slightly harder, with more tannin on the tongue and a little less body.
I’d buy the ‘03 and drink it now; I’d let the others sit a year or so.
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Some recent tastings brought these opinions. . . .
Ballentine Vineyards, St. Helena, showed three excellent wines, two well-aged, delightful 2001 Napa Valley Zinfandels and a meritage from the same vintage. All are winners. The Block 11 Zin, $18 at the winery, was deep and rich, with the brambly feeling of good zins and lots of red fruit, a little light but with excellent flavor. The wine from the Block 9 vineyard, $27 at the winery, was deeper in flavor, richer and longer of finish, with an extra touch provided by 5 percent of Petit Sirah. The Integrity, a meritage blend of 58 percent Merlot, 32 percent Cabernet Franc and 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, spent 22 months in oak and is a superior creation, with outstanding balance, lots of raspberry flavors, and a good value at $32 at the winery.
Zaca Mesa, the Santa Barbara County winery, offers a superior meritage under the label of "Z Cuvee," and the wine from the Santa Ynez Valley is 48 percent Mourvedre, 32 percent Grenache and 20 percent Syrah, with a retail price tag of about $18. The blend works perfectly, with deep, rich flavors of plums and blackberries, superior balance and a long, smooth finish.
Courtney Benham, a second label of Martin Ray, shows a delicious ‘05 Sauvignon Blanc, splendid with oysters on the half shell, or most fish dishes, and a fine value at $12.
MacMurray Ranch, another Gallo property in the Sonoma area has a superior white, a 2005 Sonoma Coast Pinot Gris, with lovely peach overtones and still some dry spiciness. There’s a lot of fruit, but the excellent balance avoids sweetness. About $20, and yes, the ranch at one time belonged to Hollywood actor Fred.
Columbia Winery, Woodinville, Wash. Makes a pleasant, fruity, delicate 2002 Syrah with fine balance and body. About $15.
Rosenblum Cellars makes wine in the East Bay town of Alameda, but sources grapes from all over the state. A 2004 Redwood Valley (Mendocino County) Zinfandel from Annette’s Vineyard is a big one with 15.5% alcohol. But the wine shows superior flavor, rich and deep, very plummy with superb aroma of berries. A little high at $35 but worth it for a special treat.
-Joe
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