Pappy's Smokehouse

"Why," we asked each other, smiling happily "wasn’t there a place like this when we lived nearby?" Pappy’s Smokehouse is at the intersection of Olive and Cardinal, a block east of Compton, actually facing Cardinal rather than Olive, on the edge of what once was the Brigadoon-like Laclede Town. Ann lived in Laclede Town in the ‘70s, Joe in Laclede Park in the ‘60s; their paths never crossed. Pappy’s is located close to both Grand Center and the new St. Louis U. arena, but there are risks to wallowing in barbecue sauce before a St. Louis Symphony concert. Basketball fans may not be as quick to point fingers.

In any event, don’t let the name fool you into thinking this is some rustic hole in the wall. The industrial exterior holds an L-shaped room that, while warmed with much barbecue memorabilia, is almost clinically basic.

Like an increasing number of places, Pappy’s serves its meat unsauced. (St. Louis became accustomed to saucy ‘que years ago, when the cooked barbecue was kept warm in a pan of simmering sauce.) We like the hottest of the three on the picnic table, Holly’s Hot, which is pretty frisky but not incendiary. There’s a sweet and seemingly simple one, called Sweet Baby Jane, and the house sauce, Pappy’s Original, which has a fine depth of flavor, smoky, slightly fruity, and with just a little heat to go with the sweetness. All are tomato-based.

We’re very happy with the pulled pork and beef brisket, both quite moist and smoky, the ribs which are a little chewier but redolent with the rub’s spicing, and the pulled chicken. But three more unusual offerings deserve attention. Turkey breast, that section that in the wrong hands so often resembles pasteboard, is skinned, rubbed and smoked by the Pappy’s folks, and turns out shockingly tasty, in addition to being tender and juicy. It’s sliced rather than pulled, a move that shows off its tenderness.

Less often found in ‘que spots hereabouts is sausage, sometimes described as hot links. The traditional bright red color, they’re rather like a spicy polish sausage. Sausage lovers should immediately check out these tasty guys.

And finally, and most unlikely, is the Frito pie. We suspect this dish came out of Texas in the 1950's, a drive-in classic consisting of a layer of Fritos (sometimes in the original single-serving bag cut open) topped with chili, cheese, and chopped onion. The barbecue version changes that a little. The Fritos are topped with beef or pork (we asked for chicken and got it), a layer of beans, and then the cheese. Those who love Slingers will be in heaven. The pleasure is in the amazing contrasts, especially with a drizzle of the hot barbecue sauce across the top. The molasses-sweet beans, the vinegary heat of the sauce, the salt of the Fritos, the creaminess of the cheese, and the smoky chew of the meat add up to a chorus in the mouth.

   

Of the sides, we’re most pleased with the sweet-potato fries. The beans do well, and the slaw, in a sweet-sour oil and vinegar dressing with a scattering of celery seeds, is acceptable. Deep-fried corn on the cob sounds like fun, but really offers nothing deeply remarkable except chewier kernels than usual.

The drill here is to order at the counter and give your name; the order is brought to your table. The diner is not abandoned, however, there’s almost always someone zooming through the dining room checking on customers. And we’d warn you to call ahead in the evening. When Pappy’s runs out of meat, they close. In fact, on our most recent visit, a sign announced, "No ribs or beef until 2:30 p.m."

Pappy’s Smokehouse

3106 Olive St.

314-535-4340

www.pappyssmokehouse.com

Lunch and Dinner daily

Credit cards: All major

Wheelchair access: Good

Smoking: No

Entrees: $6-$19

Comments

[Giselle]

Hello I loved Pappis,
One block from there is
"the fountain on Locust" Everybody is talking about ...
It is locate at 3037 Locust street, the decor is fantastic, and the food.. Yummmm... They open two months ago.
The Chef is Argentinian, I'm Argentinian to.
I love your blog!!!!
Giselle

[K-Dawg]

My wife and I tried Pappy's today for lunch and were blow away. The food and atmosphere was everything I've been looking for in local BBQ! Just make sure you get there early because the line can get long (but Pappy's seemed to clear them out pretty quickly).

[Sunit]

I just had lunch here yesterday and thought the food was good yet was not blown away. Perhaps the expectations were too high. I did think the food was pretty tasty though. I had a combo platter of the pulled pork and brisket and both were pretty tender, especially the pork. I had it with Holly's Hot sauce and I did enjoy the flavors. I had sides of the baked beans and the sweet potato fries. The beans are great- they have a bit of spice but also are sweet and its an addictive blend of flavors. The fries were alright- perhaps you have to be a big sweet potato fan to thoroughly enjoy them. They tasted alright it was just not something I would crave.