The word "tapas" has slid into the language of American restaurants, just the way "pasta" did; few people bother to assume that the small plates of food even will be minimally Spanish. Mia Rosa has moved the concept to an Italian menu, offering them in two rooms on the western edge of the Grove neighborhood. Simple, modern rooms with big, bright original artwork, the only drawback is that they, like so many restaurants these days, can be very noisy when they’re busy. Our server was young and eager, and mostly very knowledgeable about the food.
Insporite was a new word for us; turns out it’s a salad of black olives and artichoke hearts marinated in a red wine vinaigrette, tangy and satisfying. A grilled shrimp cocktail’s red sauce was tomato and roasted garlic, the garlic under good control, but with an acidic sharpness that surprised. The shrimp were slightly overdone, leading to chewiness. Big chunks of eggplant, a nice change from the wee dice usually seen, marked the caponata, its sweet-and-sour seasoning providing pleasurable sensations.
From the list of warm tapas came an excellent and very different lasagna, vegetarian and without pasta, just layers of grilled zucchini and eggplant, tomato sauce, mushrooms and cheese, pleasing even to non-zuke fans like us. A single piece of osso bucco, described as "provance (sic) style," sat on fresh tomato pieces and white beans, all sauced with the pureed cooking juices and vegetables. The beans looked absolutely perfect, shiny and smooth, but they were a shock to someone who grew up eating country style ham and beans. Still a little resistant to the tooth, they were cooked through, but seemingly not a minute longer. However, the texture worked well and the combination of flavors was swinging. A tiny spoon came alongside to dig out the marrow.
Pumpkin ravioli had the pumpkin in the pasta itself, the filling made of smoked shrimp. Sauced with brown butter, they were excellent. And so were a pair of lamb chops, described as grilled with black pepper and garlic. Neither seasoning overwhelmed, but settled in nicely. Old-school lamb lovers who go far enough back to remember the mint jelly tradition, would have appreciated the mint vinaigrette drizzle on the plate, but what dazzled us were the polenta fries, crispy-crunchy, impossible not to devour.
As expected, the wine list leaned heavily on Italy, with the Piedmont, Tuscany and other areas predominating. Moderate prices, good selection
An individual, very fudgy, chocolate cake finished things off, alongside a scoop of espresso chocolate chip gelato with a nice texture and serious flavor. Quite satisfactory.
Mia Rosa
4501 Manchester Ave.
314-652-7672 (ROSA)
www.saucemagazine.com/website.php?e=3832
Tapas: $4-$9
Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Poor
Smoking: No
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