But it was Monarch, created six years ago by Jeff Orbin and Aaron Teitelbaum as a top-scale destination restaurant with a classic menu, that opened the door on the corner and held it open for Mike Johnson, Gregg Perez and many others. They expanded with Herbie's Vintage '72 in the Central West End where Teitelbaum now is the executive chef; he and Orbin have added Josh Galliano as executive chef and Matt McGuire as general manager at Monarch.
To clarify things, Joe has known McGuire since Matt was a small boy, son of a dear friend and colleague at the Post-Dispatch, and was a regular patron at King Louie's throughout its existence.
Galliano, who moved west from An American Place, brings a slightly different approach from that exhibited by Brian Hale, who opened Monarch and now is at the Chase-Park Plaza. Galliano is a touch more modern in his approach and in his plating, and shows the influence of Larry Forgione, founding chef at An American Place.
Both men have built Monarch into something special, and a recent visit, in search of a celebratory evening, turned out to be exactly that. No, we were not celebrating anything, just in the mood for a celebratory evening.
The restaurant, for those who haven't visited recently, comprises three areas beyond the reception desk. There's a cafe-like room with windows and tables that faces Sutton Avenue, more brightly lit than the celadon-colored dining room and its adjacent glass-walled wine cellar, visible from the dining room. And then there's the large bar area, its unusual shape echoed by the bar itself. It has a separate menu, as well as tables for dining or drinking. We've talked about eating in the bar before; this visit was to see what Galliano was doing with the more formal menu.
A pleasant hum on a weekend evening was a welcome beginning. The crowd seemed generally younger than it once was; it's nice to see another generation of restaurant-goers coming along. But the light level is rather low, almost enough to necessitate the use of one of those tiny flashlights often found at the bottom of large purses.
We kicked things off with the arugula salad, but the server returned quickly to advise us that it was being made this evening with mixed greens. Yes, that was fine, and so it arrived with just a dab of arugula but the remainder just as advertised. Garnished with a paper-thin cross-section of crisp dried pear, it wore a vinaigrette of cider vinegar hit with a little brown sugar, a few strands of pickled red onion and nuggets of Gorgonzola cheese, and several pieces of grilled pear. We dislike sweet salad dressings, but the flavors were so balanced it became the exception that proves the rule.
Roasted octopus was dressed with smoked paprika and a grilled scallion vinaigrette busy being soaked up by some smashed potatoes. A note of oregano kicked in after a bit, and then, finally a slow burn, probably from the paprika. The octopus were carefully cooked, just a little chewy, all adding up to a first course that could have done nicely for a lunch plate.
Boudin noir was a splendid example of French/New Orleans charcuterie, dark in flavor, with its extreme richness balanced by rice. Galliano's smoker also produces elegant salume in the Italian style, and a veal pate was rich and nicely dotted with traditional pistachio nuts which added both flavor and texture.
The tuna, a giant wedge about as tall as a serving of lemon-meringue pie, was grilled rare by our choice. It was crusted with coarse mustard, adding texture and a new contrast of flavor. Still moist, of course, it sat over a mixture of little black beluga lentils, roasted cauliflower florets, a bit of leek and small cubes of unctuous pork belly, like crisp bits of roast pork. Now there's a vegetable medley. Altogether, a remarkable dish. Beluga lentils are properly named; each was about the size of a caviar egg and was delicious, if not quite as delicious as the original.
Pot-roasted lamb was so tender it might have been shoulder, but it was carefully trimmed of connective tissue and fat. Alongside came housemade ravioli stuffed with greens and a little chevre, some sauteed spinach and a very light hit of lemon. Comfort food rather than mouth-shocking, it was totally satisfying.
The wine list totals more than 300, though McGuire said it was a little smaller than when he arrived, noting that his primary concern was for wine to accompany food. He has added Italian and South American wines, and there are about 30 by the glass. The prices are totally egalitarian, with bottles ranging from $18 to $980. More important, there are good values throughout the list, whose price leader is a Bryant Family California Cabernet Sauvignon. For comparison, it is $30 more than a French Bordeaux from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild.
When it comes to dessert, Galliano, who also serves as his own pastry chef, follows the contemporary trend of small bites of four or five different items on a single plate. For example, we tried a pumpkin panna cotta. Four half-domes about the diameter of a quarter arrived, along with a bit of spice-laced French toast about the size of a half-dollar. The ice cream was rich with its maple flavor. Another dessert featured bars of passionfruit and camembert semifreddos, a great combination. All the desserts are in small portions, and therefore more easily rationalized after a meal.
Service, often a complaint in Monarch's early years, has perked up considerably, with comments from a nearby diner who proclaimed it better than what he had experienced at a famous high-roller's restaurant in Las Vegas. And an after-dinner drink at the bar made for good people watching and a perfect opportunity for quiet conversation to let the excellent evening wind down.
Monarch
7401 Manchester Ave., Maplewood
314-644-3995
Dinner Tues.-Sat.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: Yes, in bar
Entrees: $20-$30
I don't get there for dinner as often as I'd like, but frequently stop in for "classic" cocktails at the bar. It's a privilege to watch their bartenders work; they're proper artists with a shaker and top-shelf booze.
Last time I was there, though, we were told smoking at the bar was a no-no and sent outside. Your notes at the bottom of your review say otherwise. Has it changed?
Posted by: TheBrad | November 19, 2009 at 11:31 AM
We did see folks smoking at the bar, but only once. (On the other hand, the cluster of folks at the front door weren't.) As always, better to ask.
Posted by: Ann | November 19, 2009 at 12:32 PM