Dark and dramatic with large artwork, and a lounge-y bar (plus two tables for two, with a fine view of the Old County Courthouse) in the front room, it neither looks nor feels at all like its predecessor. But the menu, and its prices, look very familiar. Three courses, prix fixe at $40, with surcharges for certain things like the foie gras or rack of lamb. The wine list is still all French, although we'd certainly prefer the by-the-glass choices to be listed by more than their color and province of origin. The crowd, which appears to have dressed-up a little more, seems a balanced mixture of the folks who patronized the Central West End and newcomers from farther west.
First courses range from the expected, like classic French onion soup, to the slightly more exotic, like sweetbreads, tender and delicately flavored, dancing a tango with lemon and capers, the tartness leading but not dominating the mild organ meat. Anyone who wants to try sweetbreads for the first time will find this a proper place to begin. Perfectly cooked shrimp were joined by lardons of bacon in a mildly cheesed sauce, the shrimp still sweet, a few peas swimming along for color.
The same lardons appeared in the salad Lyonnaise, with curly endive and a still-quite-warm poached egg both wearing a quick shower of vinaigrette which became smooth and rich as the egg yolk blended in. And duck confit was an entire leg quarter, crisp on the outside, soft and rich inside, on a plate that had been swabbed with garlic butter and garnished with a handful of potatoes, pan-fried rather than deep-fried, and just right for sweeping up every bit of the butter and duck juices.
And steak still is present, both a hanger and a strip, along with good frites and the same excellent Bearnaise sauce. Entrees arrive with a group of tasty vegetables--emphatically not the dreaded "seasonal vegetable medley." On our most recent visit, we had a potato gratin, gooey and garlicky in just the correct proportion, haricots verts, those slender little green beans, and some wonderfully zingy red cabbage. If you think you don't like cabbage, this may change your mind. Those vegetables went well with veal liver, offered with a mustard sauce or with bacon and onions. We opted for the latter and were glad we did. The liver's pan juices were reduced to emphasize the onion flavor, and some of those familiar, tasty lardons and a little red wine rolled together into an excellent sauce. We weren't asked about preference in terms of doneness, and it arrived medium, fork-tender and absolutely delicious. The delightful vegetables also rode shotgun with a large, beautifully cooked to medium-rare veal chop and its first-rate sauce. Described on the menu as creamy with dried fruit, it turned out to feature cranberries, looking like garnets, their tartness tempered by the sauce's rosemary, an unusual pairing that worked very well indeed.
The wine list shows good balance on prices, and a nice range of choices. As noted above, however, the patronizing air that accompanied the by-the-glass selections is an irritant. So is the fact that valet parking, free in the city, is not in the county, where the City Earnings Tax does not apply.
Desserts are in need of some work. Tarte tatin, the upside-down apple tart, suffered from limp pastry, apples that lacked flavor, and insufficient caramelizing. Souffles have reappeared on the menu, always a laudable touch. But souffle after souffle passed us, with only the most minimal rise above the tops of their dishes, their batter having dripped down the sides. When our raspberry souffle arrived, it tasted good, but the custard sauce known as crème anglaise was as thin as milk. We're not sure if it was undercooked or overthinned, but it did show clear evidence of having been made with vanilla beans. On the other hand, some out-of-season but very flavorful cherries, simply marinated in a little brandy and spice, were charming.
Service is nicely polished without being condescending, and zips around handsomely on busy nights. Still, the kitchen can get slammed and things do back up from time to time. Once those desserts get straightened out, things will be back in the usual groove of a restaurant by Leon Bierbaum.
7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton
314-361-1589
Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Tues.-Sun
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Prix fixe: $40/3 courses
Comments