Robust

We visited Robust the evening that the Rep opened its season. Things were humming. Who would have thought that a wine bar would thrive in what the theater itself once described as "the quiet little village of Webster Groves"? But it has, and while it may call itself a wine bar, , it's far more, providing a widely varied lunch and dinner menu and culinary style, with a new chef on board and changes ahead.

The bad news for pre-theater diners is that Robust doesn't take reservations for parties smaller than 10. Still, the dining room was less than half full at 6 p.m (although a half-hour later, it was close) and our custom of saying that we have a curtain to make ensures there'll be no shilly-shallying by a server, no nail-biting by us.

Plenty of small plates, an idea that seems as if it's here to stay, and a bonus before theater in this calorie-conscious age, a double-bonus in that a less caloric dinner reduces the urge for a post-prandial nap. Suggested wine pairings accompany each item. We began with a first-rate Caesar salad, cool and crisp with a lovely savory dressing that was a real Caesar dressing. This is what it ought to taste like, and you can say that to your friends who thought they didn't like anchovies. No visible fish fillets in the dressing, just enough to add a hint of flavor and create a delicious salad.

Robust's hummus is made with red lentils, which are salmon-pink when dry, and cook up to a glowing golden yellow. It's seasoned with several so-called “warm” spices like cinnamon and perhaps coriander, and served--yes, warm--drizzled with some mango chutney and wedges of freshly toasted pita. The hummus is close to Indian dal, and extremely tasty.

Several tasty appetizers arrive on first-rate, house-made, crisp flatbreads, one involving slices of smoked duck breast on a spread of roasted onions and garlic, slices of tart seedless grapes and cheese, adding up to an irresistible combination.

Closer in size to a main course was a plate that began with a juicy chunk of pan-seared halibut. Underneath it were ribbons of cabbage cooked until barely tender in coconut milk, a culinary design to magically transport the vegetable from Ireland to Southeast Asia. Between the fish and cabbage was a pillow of egg and rice noodles cooked together like a mini-omelet.

Robust's one-of-a-kind dessert is called a cop stopper, the name coming out of a contest to identify what basically is a bread pudding made with both cake and yeast doughnuts, served with ice cream lightly dusted with ground espresso beans. When we first had it a year or two ago, it was baked in a coffee cup. Now it arrives spread out on a plate, the doughnut pieces in a soft custard that's run under the grill. We preferred the previous presentation; this one lacks oomph, although the coffee ice cream brings points.

Service generally sparkles, and so does the wine list, with a wide selection of tastes and prices, served by the bottle or the glass. The system of "flights," or several glasses, is a good one, offering an opportunity to "compare or contrast" wine-and food pairings, an excellent idea on a far more interesting topic than whatever our college professor was teaching.

Robust

227 W. Lockwood, Webster Groves

314-963-0033

www.robustwines.com

Lunch and Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Good

Smoking: No

Plates: $6-$15

 

Comments

[Alanna]

We love Robust -- in part because it's one of the few places nearby where you can get real food after 9pm but also because the food is just good. I recommend the charcuterie plate ...

[Carrie Straatman]

We love Robust! Always great food!