The big thing to remember about the City Diner at the Fox is that it's a diner. Despite the delightfully retro décor, lava lamps and all, this is not a tongue-in-chic “interpretation of” a diner. Located next door to the Fox Theatre, it's open late and serves breakfast at all hours, more diner qualities that make it endearing. Yes, there's a liquor license, and a bar, but it doesn't seem to be a place--at least not yet--where the current manifestation of lounge lizards hang out. Plenty of big windows for booths with views of Strauss Park and the Grand Center scene, and lots of room for eaters, with tables also stretching back along the Washington Avenue side.
From the breakfast menu, we sampled the chorizo scramble and some French toast. The scramble had plenty of chorizo sausage, as well as some onions which were very tasty, slightly spicy and redolent of the cumin used in the sausage. With sides of refried beans and a few foil-wrapped flour tortillas, it's a good starter for those who prefer, or who would like to try, a lively morning opener. French toast was deep-fried to a crispness that was just right. And the batter, with a light hit of cinnamon, was just barely sweet, but enough so that the syrup was mostly superfluous. Unfortunately, it was extremely greasy, the single disappointment for the dish. Bacon on the side is of good quality, and not paper-thin, a nice touch.
Manhattan clam chowder, a soup du jour, is seldom found in St. Louis. It's one of Joe's favorites, and the tomato-ey, thick chowder had a good amount of clams, some potatoes and onions and, surprisingly, a little corn. Good stuff. Chili, of course, is a standard on diner menus. Unlike that which originates in a vat-sized tin can, this was clearly homemade, with kidney beans, chunks of tomato and onion, not very hot-spicy, and slightly sweet behind a little acidity. It could have been warmer in terms of both temperature and spice.
Onion rings, too, don't seem pre-made, a light beer batter, with an overtone of yeast, and the onions not sliced too thickly, a worthwhile splurge for the dieting. And the chicken wings were outstanding, arriving very meaty, sharply crisp and just hot enough for us, which means they were pretty spicy.
We've been partial to the meatloaf omelet at the South Grand location, and they do make a good meatloaf in Midtown, too. However, in an even trade, we went for liver and onions. The liver, thinly sliced but still tender, was gristle-free, topped with plenty of onions and a couple of strips of bacon, The green beans were fresh, not overcooked, and dressed with a little of the bacon grease: Excellent. The only drawback was the unremarkable brown gravy, quite skippable.
City Diner's Cuban sandwich replaces ham with chicken, a variation that either mellows the sandwich or removes some of its piquancy, depending on the diner's point of view. We go with the latter, but aside from that, this is a good sandwich, nice and crunchy, slightly gooey from the melting gouda cheese. Kicking it up a notch is the side sauce, presumably for dipping the sandwich as if it were filled with roast beef sandwich. It's a first-rate mojo sauce, a very orange-y one, in flavor as well as color, as garlic-laced as it should have been, a delight.
City Diner is making its own desserts, and red velvet cake was a winner, moist and with an actual note of chocolate, something missed by too many bakers. A thick layer of cream cheese frosting was gilding for the lily. Dangerously good.
Visiting when things are quiet has been an assurance of good service, though we've heard tales of a certain amount of chaos when they're slammed. A late-night, post-theater visit was a delight, though, with folks literally from 8 to 80 reviving the old tradition of a snack and a sip and some conversation at that hour. Later, groups of theater people arrived. coming down from a post-performance high. We'd certainly be excited if this place turned into the equivalent of the Stage Delicatessen, or P. J. Clarke's, or the late and long-remembered Schrafft's or Toffenetti's in New York, alive and jumping at 11:30 p.m. or later. We're sure it will do well before shows and concerts, especially since the Grand Center folks realized the correct way to attract people and removed the increased cost and time on parking meters in the neighborhood.
City Diner at the Fox
541 N. Grand Blvd.
314-533-7500
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner daily, all night Friday and Saturday.
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Entrees: $9-$15
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