The Fox and Hounds

Civilization has returned to the corner of Clayton Road and Clayton Avenue. The Fox and Hounds bar in the Cheshire has reopened, looking amazingly like it did in the 1950s and 60s, when the late Mark Pollman held forth behind the bar. His book, "Bottled Wisdom," is for sale, and a small plaque pays tribute. We visited the other night, and as we sat at the bar, a young couple strolled in, looked around; the man's first response was, "Amazing."

We represent both extremes of guests here; Joe was practically a regular a long time ago, and Ann may have been here once many, many years ago. But the decor of an upper-crust English pub with comfortable chairs, cozy lighting and animal heads is irresistible. A piano player and a stand-up bass, providing a soundtrack of romantic mid-century jazz standards, clinched the deal.

Yes, there's food, too; wings are crisp under a light brushing of a sweet-hot glaze; the black pepper mayonnaise was superfluous. And we loved the lamb sliders, one of the few times we've found brioche buns to actually work with a burger. The one with the small scoop of cheddar spread was the top of the heap for us. Fish and chips did pretty well, although the second piece was too greasy. Nice light batter, though. Food until 10 during the week, 11 on the weekends.

We can't imagine how many seductions this place has hosted, but we think it's going to be the scene of many more, either in the warm and friendly bar, or on the dimly lighted patio around the pool.

 

The Fox and Hounds

The Cheshire Inn

6300 Clayton Rd.

314-647-7300

www.cheshirestl.com

Lunch and Dinner nightly

Credit cards: Yes

Wheelchair access: Fair

Smoking: No

Food: $9-$14

Comments

[Dan Randant]

Thanks for the "Bottled Wisdom" mention. I published this with Mark all those years ago and it's still available...at the Cheshire and from amazon.com.