After more than a year's wait, The Good Pie has reopened in the Delmar Loop, moving from the orbit of St. Louis University to that of Washington University. And yet, if there were ever a not-your-college-pizza-joint, this is (still) it. With a new pizza oven, wood burning, a lovely robin's-egg blue, it's still turrning out the trademark crust, bubbles charred at the edges, chewy rather than crisp, and toppings that range from purist to "Gee...".
The decor, once dark and pleasantly saloon-like, is now modern wood, reminiscent of Japanese or Scandinavian restaurants. No word on who the Queen Alexandra-ish lady on the east wall is. Bar stools are modelled on antique tractor seats, large enough for bachelor farmers of yore but perhaps not so comfy for the lissome size 2s who come to investigate the intricate cocktails. The beer list is shorter than the aperitif options, both slightly esoteric. I'd be happier with a few more wines by the glass.
Starters include three salads, the arugula salad now no longer mostly arugula but a mixture of fresh local baby greens, the chopped with its spicy vinaigrette and a Caesar, almost classic but for the lack of croutons and a light shower of crumbled egg yolk. Not vegetarian, though; there's definite anchovy in the dressing.
The pies? One size, perhaps 10 inches across. Two kinds of margaritas, both, of course, with tomato and basil, but the primo choice is with buffalo mozzarella, the combination of the red, white and green in the mouth a sudden, joyous taste of high summer with its fresh basil. Salami andd salsicca are among other options, but also the idea of pork belly and sage and an egg seemed like a good one. The pork belly had been brined and cut into lardons, so it was almost batons of bacon, and the egg, yolk still runny as is the usual practice to allow for dipping of crust. The sage, however, was sharp, almost bitter, when bitten into, too rowdy for a civilized creation. Removing the sage left just its residual flavors and the balance was restored.
Toward the end of the week, from Thursday onward, there are small servings of pasta available. All made in-house, they're uncommon pairings priced to serve as they are in Italy, as a first course (although, in my experience, not at Italian pizza restaurants). A serving of blue corn spaghetti studded with bits of squid, capers, and red bud tree blossoms, dressed in a tart sauce that made one think it might be almost as tasty served as a cold salad. I hear the gnocchi are good, too, but that'll wait until next time.
They're making gelato, too, although that particular form of carb loading will have to wait, too.
The Good Pie
6665 Delmar, University City
314-899-9221
on Facebook
Lunch and Dinner Tues.-Sun
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
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