It’s no secret that I’m pretty crabby on the subject of morning potatoes. The last place I expected to find platonic antemeridianal spuds was New York City. But there they were, smiling and waving at me from a plate across the street from the Whitney Museum, in an eatery with the unlikely name of Bubby’s. (This is also at the southern end of the Highline elevated park.)
Styled home fries on the menu, they’re slices of panfried potatoes of varying thickness, some fried to dark crispness. They’re laced, indeed, loaded with enough onions, also cooked to varying degrees of doneness but all lending their sweet savor to things. They’re seasoned with just a wee bit of heat, scarcely noticeable until the mouth is empty.
Bubby’s is not a diner, although they serve three meals a day. And it’s not cheap – an omelet with local goat cheese and a fresh New Jersey corn-and-tomato salsa was $22. But frankly, the omelet was superfluous with those babes. All the potatoes really needed was a couple of over-easy eggs – which the kitchen is willing to do. And breakfast is served until 4 p.m. (Take that, dratted hangover!)
Bubby’s is also proud of their pie; I had a nice slice of cherry, or “sour cherry”. (Surely even in New York, they’re not making cherry pie with the dark sweet cherries?) It clearly wasn’t fresh from the oven, but warmed a bit and served with a buttery-thick scoop of whipped cream. They also have a counter in the back serving ice cream from Ample Hills Creamery in Brooklyn, including “ooey gooey butter cake” ice cream. Inquiries about th etiology of that have gone unanswered by the creamery thus far.
The location means the competition is Danny Meyer’s Untitled across the street in the museum. But Danny’s not doing breakfast. I’m sure he’d like these potatoes.
Bubby’s also has a second restaurant, at 120 Hudson Street in Tribeca.
Bubby’s
73 Gansevoort St., New York City
212-206-6200
Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Smoking: No
Breakfast Entrees: $15-$24
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