As a pizza lover, there’s no such thing to me as too many pizza places. Yes, I can do without the national chains, certainly, but new spots always attract my attention. They especially attract my attention when they serve things like mussels and paella.That’s an odd go-with, someone mutters. Bear with me.
Peel Wood Fired Pizza has crossed the river and landed in Clayton, bringing with them their own beer as well. Located in a new building at the corner of Meramec and Bonhomme, it’s a large, airy room, some outdoor seating, lots of tables, including a side room, and a counter where diners can watch the wood ovens being worked (although one wishes the seats were an inch higher or the wall an inch or so lower).
Looking at the menu, in many ways, it’s not fair to characterize this as a pizza place. There are lots of other options, from start to finish. Many take advantage of the oven’s presence, like chicken wings, which are available in eleven variations. The Caribbean mango wings, big guys that were still very moist, wore a tangy but not fiery mango sauce and were showered with diced fresh mango and some cilantro. Arguably more virtuous roasted cauliflower sat in a mayonnaise spiced with harissa, a fair kick to it, with some bread crumbs as a crunchy garnish. They disappeared faster than the wings, a remarkable feat.
Kale is long past its moment, yes, but sometimes it’s just the thing in a salad. Peel uses it for its Caesar and the diner is rewarded. Yes, the kale is chewy – burn off some of those calories from dinner, right? - but the dressing is nigh-on perfect, salty, tangy, slightly mysterious with lots of umami, a worthwhile start to the meal. Even the small salads are generously portioned, by the way. A fine wild mushroom soup, full of the flavor of the woods on an autumn afternoon, is served with an equally free hand; the “cup” is a bowl. Perhaps the bowl option is a saucepan. Not to complain, just enjoy.
The pizza? That, too, is, or can be, a little different. Wanting to start out with the basics, the first order was what the menu terms a ricotta pizza, Italian sausage, wild mushrooms, tomato sauce, ricotta and mozzarella. There’s a single size, about twelve inches. This guy was a fine combination of creamy and tangy, the sausage not running wild with its fennel, the mushrooms leading the way. A second pizza, of flank steak with a barbecue sauce made from the house Brown Ale, mozzarella and cheddar cheeses, onion, fresh tomato and a little fresh tomato also charmed. The crust is excellent, very chewy at the edges. However, on both pies, ordered on two visits, the center of the pizza was totally floppy, and the edges not quite so blistered from the heat as they might have been. One wonders if they’ve cut back on the heat or the time to avoid the complaints from folks who think those blisters mean the pizza is burnt. Using a knife and fork on pizza is fine in Europe, but stateside, it’s finger food, preferably without molten cheese threatening the eater’s shirt.
Why paella at a place like this? Because it’s traditionally cooked over a wood fire, something most diners (like me) didn’t know until pretty recently. There are two with the proper Calasparra rice, one with mixed seafood and one with chicken, shrimp and Spanish-style chorizo, which is rather like pepperoni. In addition, there’s a bulgur wheat riff on paella with merguez, which is a lamb sausage, and lamb shoulder and another variation, this one using orzo and wood-roasted chicken. The chicken/shrimp/chorizo version was a good example of how that rice ought to be cooked, still a little firm but not quite al dente, with color and flavor from edamame and cherry tomatoes as well as saffron. Good stuff.
There’s also a dessert paella using coconut milk and fresh fruit, one of the several house-made choices. A square of lemon-blueberry cheesecake was easily shareable, the only possible option after a large meal.
Lots of beer options, both those made by Peel and elsewhere, including a lot of draft choices. A choose-it-yourself flight of four is a nice idea. My pal the Brewmeister was particularly taken with Alterior Motive and Thwarted Passion, the latter using some passionfruit to give a little tartness and a great nose. Also a good idea is the IBU number on the beer menu, meaning International Bitterness Units, a scale that will help with decisions. From the cocktail side, the house margarita was pretty impressive, too, with fresh lime and a generous pour of tequila.
Noisy but not impossible for conversation, at least at the bar by the kitchen. And lots of tasty, interesting food.
Peel Wood Fired Pizza
208 S. Meramec, Clayton
314-696-2515
Lunch and dinner daily
Credit cards: Yes
Wheelchair access: Good
Entrees: $12-$32
They serve excellent pizza and wings. Some of the best pizza in the area. They have 2 locations. One location is in O’Fallon IL and the other is right outside Scott AFB.
Address: 711 W Hwy 50 O’Fallon, IL, 62269
Phone: (618) 726-2275
business email: [email protected]
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Posted by: FlamentCo's The Place | October 11, 2021 at 11:51 AM